It all began in the 16th century, when Cagliari merchant Pietro Porta reported large shoals of tuna in the waters off Capo Giordano, just steps from where Villa Red Melons stands today. He obtained authorisation from the Spanish Crown, under the reign of Philip II, and the Su Pranu tuna trap was born. By the 17th century it had become one of the most productive tonnare in the Mediterranean — so much so that King Philip IV, with the state's coffers running low, decided to sell it to the Genoese Geronimo Vivaldi.
How the mattanza worked
Every April the tonnarotti (tuna fishermen) laid up to 4-5 km of nets in the sea, arranged into a series of "chambers" that guided the tuna ever deeper, towards the chamber of death. About a month later, the rais — the head of the fishing crew — directed the boats through the final phase: the nets were hauled up, forcing the tuna to the surface to be harpooned. The evening before the mattanza, fishermen would gather to pray at the chapel of Sant'Antonio, hoping for a good catch — a ritual that says a lot about how much this work was both an economy and a faith.
The tuna trap stayed active until around 1973, then fell into disuse. In 1983-84 activity resumed under Tonnara Su Pranu Portoscuso, now part of the Tonnare Sulcitane cooperative — a nearly 470-year-old tradition that continues, albeit in a different form from the original.
What's left to see
The historic tuna-trap building, with its arches over the water, is still there and is one of the most photographed spots in Portoscuso — a piece of history you can see without needing a museum. Walking there, ideally at sunset, is one of the simplest ways to understand why this town is named the way it is.
Why stay here
Villa Red Melons is a few minutes' walk from both the tuna trap and Portopaglietto beach: you can visit this piece of local history the same evening you arrive, without moving the car.
Practical tips
- The best way to see the tuna trap is on foot, as part of an evening walk towards the centre.
- For up-to-date information on any guided visits or events tied to the tuna trap, the Municipality of Portoscuso publishes news on the history and traditions section of its website.
- If you're curious about local food, just ask us: tuna remains one of the area's signature products.
Message us on WhatsApp for more tips on what to see in Portoscuso: +39 347 915 5119.